Красная Поляна – однажды 20 лет спустя

Krasnaya Polyana - Once Upon a Time 20 Years Later

Do you remember how it all started?

We again vacationed on the Black Sea coast of the resort city of Sochi and stubbornly looking for an adventure on his head, if only for the reason that we were here in the off-season.

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Everyone remembers how the cartoon characters Winnie the Pooh and Piglet went to visit Rabbit and got into an awkward situation precisely because they lacked some spice in life. At that time the heroes had already finished their breakfast, lunch had not even thought of starting, and they had to look for a place where they could seriously refresh themselves.

A similar thing was happening to us; the warm subtropical winter was over, the beach season was not about to begin, and the vacation was threatening to become boring and boring. Our walks in the Olympic Park in Sochi had some enticing views of Krasnaya Polyana, which kept us awake.

Together we did the math with the accuracy of plus or minus 1 year and found out that the last time we were in the domain of mountain beauties 20 years ago.

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That long ago trip was quite stormy and emotional, leaving us with doubts for the future as to whether we should pull the "uncle adrenaline's" whiskers one more time. We had a sturdy VAZ 2105 model car in our arsenal that could withstand any mountainous route, and early in the morning we set off on our journey. During breakfast, the owner of the private hotel where we were resting in Khost tried to give us some advice:

  • Be careful in tunnels and on narrow tracks;
  • Do not forget to bring warm clothes;
  • to listen to the ropeway instructor's advice in everything.

But who would listen to someone else's advice if he thought he had "got his own moustache" a long time ago. The road turned out to be picturesque and somewhat extreme. I did not want to think that rockslides and accidents were not uncommon here. Outside the window of the car we could see a proud and beautiful nature.

The opening views lifted my spirits, and the legendary lines of my favorite poet Vladimir Vysotsky stuck in my head: Only mountains are better than the ones I've never been to.

glade

The old highway to Krasnaya Polyana was colorful and moved along the frisky course of the Mzymta River. At times, sections of the road would cling to the rocky boulders of the mountains, looping and confusing the tracks, and then would be blocked by a traffic jam of vehicles trying to hide in the secure semi-darkness of another tunnel.

The travel time could be spent in different ways, with a good set of circumstances it took 2-3 hours, in bad weather these numbers could easily double. Almost at the end of the trip we stopped in a beautiful ravine near a tourist camp.

The complex was decorated with stuffed bears, birds of prey, and some wooden figurines, and the cunning local boys offered to taste homemade grape wine or take pictures with a monkey and an owl, tiredly flapping their eyes in the bright sun. The usual tourist spot typical of resort vacation spots.

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On the spot, we found everything very nice. A couple or three cafes, one of which stood out for its whimsical design with a small real mill and tables scattered between the bridges over the river.

There were trout in this very river, which we were offered to choose for the lunch we ordered at a later time. After ordering at the picturesque cafe, we left our iron friend in the parking lot and hurried to the cable car.

It was still a hot September, the temperature was mild and comfortable +24 ... +26 C. Well, what normal person would take warm things out of the trunk? That's right. They can hardly be useful in such a warm and cozy place.

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In the 1990s, a sled ropeway without covered cabins functioned properly at Krasnaya Polyana. The upcoming adventure of climbing to the third stage seemed very tempting to us. After paying for the upcoming pleasure, we amicably took our seats.

The instructor checked if we had fastened our seat belts properly and wished us a good climb. The smooth movement of the rope complex continued, and the 2nd stage structures were visible on the horizon in front of us.

The ground beneath my feet was not far away, venerable conifers sailed along the sides, and behind me was a flat area with cafe houses, bridges, and a playground.

Now it is time to make a brief excursion into the geographical characteristics of Krasnaya Polyana. Tourist guides, all kinds of encyclopedias and manuals bring to our attention that the mountain cluster we are looking for is an urban-type settlement.

It is about 40 km away from the first shoreline of the Black Sea. Now there is a fashionable tendency in the season of beach rest to book places in hotels Krasnaya Polyana, and to sunbathe and swim go to the beaches of Sochi and Adler. What can I say about it:

  • High-star hotels arrange free shuttle service to and from the beach for tourists, because they are interested in maximizing the occupancy of their facilities;
  • For nature lovers this option is advantageous and convenient, the cost of housing in Krasnaya Polyana in the summer time is reduced, in the arsenal of the village a lot of objects with a high level of service. Thus, you can "kill two birds with one stone": swim in the sea and be in a paradise with crystal clear mountain air and a collection of beautiful landscapes around;
  • During the warm season hotels in Krasnaya Polyana offer extensive health programs at a lower price, they stop during this period to relax athletes engaged in winter sports, and the medical base should bring income all year round;
  • The infrastructure of the village is on the highest stage of the resort pedestal, on the territory of the ski areas there is where to eat, with different levels of cash reserves, and there is where to spend time in an interesting and useful way.

The so-called lower part of Krasnaya Polyana is located at an altitude of 500 m above sea level. You have to drive a little over 60 km from the settlement to the resort town of Sochi by highway. In terms of geometry the terrace of the village has the shape of a downward sloping triangle. The settlement is framed on all sides of the peaks of the Main Caucasus Range.

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Scientists have found out that once upon a time the territory of Krasnaya Polyana was occupied by a powerful glacier, traces of which are still preserved by rock furrows and vast boulders. Among the highest points in the area are the "goat" Achishkho mountain, 2,400 meters high, and the "evil", according to Adyghe locals, Aigba ridge.

Acrophobic Lessons Tested on Your Own Skin

Meanwhile, we were distracted from our dearest memories before we even got to the brightest of them. We reached the second section of the cable car and the stop to transfer to the next line with an important look and a feeling of almost fulfilled duty.

The infrastructure of the transfer point 20 years ago was modest and laconic. A transfer platform, an instructors' house, and a couple of kiosks with hot drinks, water, and snacks.

The first thing we felt during our transit stop was the difference in air temperature. The glowing thermometer posted on the wall was servilely showing +120C, a light cool breeze was blowing, and the personnel of the cable car were dressed in warm clothes.

At this point I had to remember the admonition of the owner of our hotel, but our thick clothes lay peacefully in the trunk of the car and go back down for it did not want to. With a heavy sigh and a shake of the head the elevator worker brought us four quite warm jackets. At an altitude of almost 2400m, where we still had to climb, the temperature was +20C in the midst of a warm September day.

All knowledge in life we most often acquire through personal experience. Since those early days, I began to listen to the advice of experienced tourists and stopped considering it an empty and unnecessary activity.

The ropeway began its upward movement with some creaking, the side landscapes continued to delight in beauty and no one even paid attention to the fact that the distance to the ground began to increase in arithmetic progression.

On the 2nd line our company had to split up, here the chair seats were equipped for 2 people. At the very top, a smiling instructor gave us a hand to help us out of the seats. We found ourselves in the realm of the genuine, centuries-old beauty of the mountains.

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There were very few tourists at the highest observation platform in Krasnaya Polyana at that time. The size of the structure, according to a conservative estimate, could accommodate no more than a hundred people at a time. After looking around, we realized that some companies were passing the time in a small cozy catering facility, trying to warm up with a cup of mulled wine.

The more circumspect travelers tramped among islands of the most genuine mountain lavender, spreading a delicate fragrance and sparse snow that had not even thought of melting. In those days, the site was not yet fenced in with nets; it was a little scary to approach the edge to capture ourselves in front of the majestic mountains.

Some pictures of life cannot be described in words. All the colorful definitions seem insufficient, all the loud words empty. The heart rate goes off the scale, breathing is interrupted and born again, thoughts try to express something, but give up and surrender to the power of unprecedented beauty.

Having come to our senses from the splendor we saw around us, we relaxed a bit and decided to familiarize ourselves with the surroundings. Our attention was drawn to the point beginning the descent from this beautiful place. On the ground were clearly marked 2 big red feet, on which we had to stand before taking our seats in the cable car seats.

Nearby were two specialists of the complex, who with a sharp movement gave acceleration to the tourists, at the very beginning of the movement. Of course, I asked my companions what was going on there, to which none of us knew the answer.

All the wonderful things in life, alas, come to an end, and our time to descend into the valley came. The chair seats were waiting for us at the start, the instructor gave the command and sharply pushed us forward. Frankly speaking, we were expecting anything but this extreme. People are often afraid to admit their phobias, and "fear of heights" has never been peculiar to us.

All the way up we spent with our backs to the lower territory of Krasnaya Polyana, and now we found ourselves facing it at an altitude of over 2300m. The sensations of the insidious attacks of acrophobia are impossible to convey. Without a word we grasped the rail of our seats till our knuckles became white. A cocktail of emotions pervaded us from the inside, trying to impose a primal fear.

But "man is such an animal who gets used to everything," a phrase attributed to F.M. Dostoyevsky, which sounds unattractive, but reflects the essence clearly. Psychological mimicry occurred to us, we adapted to the circumstances. After a few minutes, we even left the chair alone and stopped frantically clinging to it.

The view of the landscapes of Krasnaya Polyana opened my eyes to such an extent that all words and epithets became powerless again. Emotions, sharpened by the thrill of the experience, went off the scale, we wanted to do something daring, and we were not the only ones. The tourists, who kept us company in the neighboring chairs moving down, shouted and sang songs, kicking each other in the sides to show us this or that landscape.

The only omission, which we never remembered on the way to the 2nd platform of the ropeway, was the video camera and the camera, solemnly prepared for shooting. All won the crude expression: pictures of the surroundings, created by the Heavenly Master, we wanted to "devour" with the eyes, what kind of technical assistants are there.

At the transit stop we made a forced halt, it was possible to be patient until the cafe with trout, but the vivid emotions required a little sedative in the form of some strong potion. It turned out that 100 ml of cognac helps to bring back the ability to think soberly and gives strength to continue the difficult journey down. The distance to the valley from the 2nd to the 1st line compared to the adventures we had just experienced, seemed like flowers against the backdrop of berries.

The courteous waiter at the cafe was soon carrying a tray of trout baked on the coals and the next portion of the life-saving "medicine. At lunch, everyone exchanged impressions, which turned out to be similar, and tried to answer honestly the question of whether they were capable of experiencing similar sensations again right now.

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The magic triangle of tourist popularity

Попасть на Красную Поляну однажды 20 лет спустя мы решили без колебания. Легендарное спортивное событие планетарного уровня в 2014 году перевернуло в жизни поселка все верх тормашками. Туристам и спортсменам Зимняя Олимпиада в Сочи оставила богатое наследство – четыре отделенных друг от друга горных туристических комплекса:

  • Rosa Khutor;
  • Alpika Service;
  • Gorky Gorod;
  • Gazprom.

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Getting to each of the representatives of the mountain resorts is now easier than ever. First, you must miraculously find yourself on the Black Sea coast near the resort towns of Adler or Sochi, and there are a variety of ways to get here: by air, rail passenger trains and bus routes. A not bad option in all respects is to arrive at the place in your own car.

After the end of the Sochi Olympics, guests from all over the world have safely left, but the new, pleasing to the eye automobile routes with dizzying interchanges remain. The Lastochka (Swallow's Helicopter) electric train, minibuses from Sochi International Airport and Sochi and Adler railway stations operate regularly to Krasnaya Polyana. Buses run smoothly, and cab drivers and private drivers do not miss a chance to earn an extra penny.

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The new tunnels built in the mountains are no match for the old, dilapidated structures, sometimes life-threatening. It is now a pleasure to drive through them, the travel time from Adler will take just over half an hour, and from Sochi to Krasnaya Polyana can be reached in an hour.

Newly built rope tows will not give you a thrill either. Equipped with perfectly safe indoor cabins, they assiduously scurry up and down on all 4 mountain complexes. The spacious area allows to seat up to 8-10 passengers at a time, and the outdoor units safely store tourists' sports equipment during ascents and descents. You can enter the cabin in full gear, which will not cause much inconvenience to neighbors nearby.

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All household services in Krasnaya Polyana work smoothly and without fuss. In the morning you can wake up to the sound of a janitor's broom or a snow shovel. By the time the resort guests wake up, all the complexes are ready to meet them fully armed.

red glade10

The general meeting of our vacation team decided not to disperse and not to go to all of the mountain tourist centers of Krasnaya Polyana, but to choose a couple of the most interesting places for us. Our first stop was near the ski jumps, frozen in time silence, waiting for new sports competitions.

The massiveness and solidity of the sports giants strikes the imagination and brings back memories of those hot days when athletes from all over the world forged victory for their country here. In the warm days of late April, the combination of spring greenery and proud mountain peaks is still picturesque and enchanting.

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The Rosa Khutor resort greeted us with cheerful birdsong, the noise of the running water of the Mzymta River, and the lively faces of smiling tourists. It just so happens that of all the places on Krasnaya Polyana, this complex has the most fans. All organized tourist groups and independent travelers usually come here.

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Over the past four years after the Olympics, the Rosa Khutor establishment has firmly established the unspoken title of "Russian Switzerland". Few people know that the International Olympic Committee, entrusting the country to host sports competitions of the highest rank, puts forward a number of serious requirements.

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In particular, on the territory of the Olympic venues there should be built a certain number of chain hotels of different levels of stardom to accommodate guests. Catering service points must meet international requirements for the quality and safety of services, chefs must be familiar with the dishes of all cuisines of the world and be able to fulfill individual orders for their preparation.

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The infrastructure of the resorts should be clear and understandable, the information on the whole territory is provided in several foreign languages.

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Fans are given the opportunity to learn about the history, everyday life, culture and other values of the host country. Stores and souvenir stores usually offer handicrafts and handicrafts for purchase.

The catering outlets offering Russian multinational cuisine are also not out of place, for those who like to have a quick snack, such facilities as McDonald's and other fast-food chains open their doors. All this diverse collection of service offerings we met at the Rosa Khutor resort.

Suggestions for winter sports fans

Fans of extreme sports on the snow slopes were not ignored either. The athletes were left with the houses of the Olympic villages on different levels of the ski resort for long-term use.

During the winter season, the current owners of all these places think of every detail: comfortable rooms with all the conveniences for customers, facilities for cleaning snow-soaked equipment, entertainment for all tastes and wallets.

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The snow-covered peaks of the Krasnaya Polyana resorts have remained at the peak of popularity for several years, gathering hundreds of thousands of tourists on their slopes. A fashionable trend in recreation remains the option of spending New Year vacations in Krasnaya Polyana, with hotel rooms and cheaper guest houses starting to sell out as early as six months before the start of the ski season.

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Consumers' impressions of visiting Krasnaya Polyana in search of new experiences are twofold. Some tourists remain delighted by the beauty of the mountains and pay little attention to the shortcomings of the services, while others focus on the level of luxury hotels and the range of spa pleasures and do not notice the picturesque scenery at all.

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Krasnaya Polyana resorts have long been reckoned to the golden fund of tourist destinations in Russia, and everyone, not just jewelers, knows that gold is divided into different qualities and everything must be tested on personal experience.

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Every year the winter sports season in Krasnaya Polyana begins in late fall and welcomes guests until the end of April. When it is better to come here for a vacation, everyone chooses for himself, because the goals of travelers often differ from each other.

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In the warm season, there is still a long and persistent snow on the very tops of the mountains. So it is still easy to meet a lady in sandals and a sundress and a gentleman in shorts and a T-shirt on Turn 4. We all love the exotic and spicy sensations, and creating them walking in the snow barefoot or swinging in a chairlift over an abyss, we often don't think much about.

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Every time we encounter the unique beauty of nature, we make new discoveries, we get to know ourselves anew, and that is a big and undeniable plus.

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On our 2nd trip to Krasnaya Polyana we made our way to the tops of the mountains anew. We wanted to test ourselves under new conditions. Yes, of course, it is still beautiful, and yes, it is still worth it, but all without hot notes of fear and mental rebirth.

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If someone asks me: what's next and what's the summary, I'll answer:

  • Without any red word of mouth or advertising, you need to see Red Glade with your own eyes;
  • beauty not only saves the world, it skillfully cleanses the soul;
  • To avoid empty and stupid disappointment, the trip is worth thinking through every detail: you can find a hotel to your liking, and a kaleidoscope of entertainment to your heart;
  • There is a huge distance between that old village and the current fashionable resort, now they are two different worlds and each of them is good in its own way;
  • Never stop dreaming about an interesting vacation, and a trip to Krasnaya Polyana falls into this category.

Our company of like-minded travelers sincerely hope that Krasnaya Polyana resorts will not fall into decay and will maintain their popularity among Russian and foreign tourists, and whether you will be among them is up to you.

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