Hike to Trinity Church and the Gergeti Glacier

Ask any tourist what their favorite places in Georgia are, and you can be sure that a walk to the Gergeti Trinity Church and the Gergeti Glacier will make the list.

A few years ago I happened to flip through a travel magazine. Seeing a picture of this very place wrapped in a glistening blanket of snow was the first time I thought about a trip to Georgia. From that moment on, it was the place I most wanted to visit.

The Gergeti Trinity Church, perched on a mossy green hill surrounded by sharp pointed peaks, is one of Georgia's most iconic landmarks. But what one would never expect is that something even more impressive is hidden behind the mountains. The striking dome of Mount Kazbegi and the Gergeti Glacier descending down its front.

Put them together and you're in one of the most exciting places in the world.

With the relentless uphill climb, rapid elevation gain and temperamental weather that accompanies any mountain adventure, it turned out to be a challenging day trip, but it is also one of my favorite excursions in Georgia and by far one of the best day hikes from Kazbegi.

Here is everything you need to know to hike to the Gergeti Trinity Church and the Gergeti Glacier from Kazbegi.

Read also: 15 useful tips before traveling to Georgia

Hike to the Trinity Church of Gergeti

• Distance: 3.5 km one way.
• Time: 45 minutes to 1.5 hours.
• Height above sea level: 2170 m.

There are several ways to get to the Trinity Church of Gergeti - a walk through the woods, a fairly expensive cab and a slightly longer but less steep climb through the lush valley.

Not surprisingly, the latter route is by far the best option, unless, of course, it is raining, at which point a cab may seem considerably more attractive.

With the rapidly dwindling days of early fall to contend with, the vague hope of seeing the sun rise over the church of worship and the afternoon storm on the horizon, I set out into the fading darkness.

From Kazbegi it was necessary to cross the bridge and follow the Stepantsminda-Sameba road for a little over a kilometer until you see a fork in the road. Then turn left and continue past the houses, turn right to walk along the right side of the crumbling stone tower, and then stick to the right side again to walk up the steep rocky path.

In fact, this route may seem a little confusing, but as long as you pick the right landmarks, the footprints of other hikers are actually quite easy to follow.

From here, the trail continues upward, wrapping around the contours of a bright green hill.

Take just a little time to explore the complex and enjoy the views, and even if you're not hiking on the Gergeti Glacier, so recommend hiking up the hill near the church for a slightly different perspective and a breathtaking panorama of the formidable mountains that are a stunning backdrop to Georgia's most beautiful church.

Also, keep in mind that if you arrive in standard hiking clothes - leggings or short shorts - you will probably be kicked out of the church by the monks and they will definitely ask you to cover up before returning.

Read also: Uplistsikhe Cave City in Georgia: History, Photos, Reviews

Hike to the Gergeti Glacier

1. Distance: 20 km from Kazbegi through the church.
2. Time: 9 - 12 hours of return.
3. Height above sea level: 3200 m.

The trail to the Gergeti Glacier begins at the bottom of the hill, near the church. We could tell you that you will pass the next part of the hike easily and quickly, but, that would be the very real lie.

Actually a steep, relentless and insanely beautiful route.

After spending most of last month idling on the beach in Albania and calming my newfound obsession with trying all the Georgian food I could get my hands on, I took a very long time hiking this route and puffing my way up the slope (it was all the fault of the delicious khachapuri!).

In all seriousness, though, I wasn't entirely sure what to expect from this hike and may have regretted the thought of acclimatization for nothing. This rapid change in altitude, combined with too many of those deliciously cheesy carbs, may have had something to do with why I was having such a hard time breathing. All that and the fact that it's a really long uphill climb - a full 9 hours is an awful long time to be at two feet, after all, it was one of the most difficult hikes I've done in a long time.

After crossing the first small hill, you have to climb up for the next 3 hours or so until you reach Sabertse Pass. The path is not signposted, but is very well traversed by other hikers and leads you through a lush green valley with unparalleled views of the church on its mountainside and the wall of sharp peaks beyond.

For the adventurous, there is also a second trail that runs along the ridge above the valley and, as many hikers say, offers even better views. This path is a little more developed, although the wind can be much stronger there.

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When you come to the stone field, you can breathe a sigh of relief knowing that you are almost at the saddle on the Sabertse Pass, which means that the hardest part is behind you.

It is from here that you will first see the stunning peak of Mount Kazbegi and the glittering trail of the Gergeti Glacier sliding along its front. A sight that will make the last few hours of hoarse breathing and scalding thighs worth it in an instant.

Having completed the hardest part of the climb and having had the fruits of such fantastic views, the Sabertse Pass is the end point for many hikers. If you set out late, the weather seems set to take an unexpected turn, or you're just exhausted, this is a good time to put it off until the next day and head back down. If this option doesn't work for you, the route will take another 1.5 hours to the bottom of the glacier.

After such an early start and a long climb, you will feel well and truly exhausted by this point, but a short break and plenty of snacks will keep you going.

From the pass, follow the trail slightly downhill to the Chheri River with icy meltwater. Don't try to jump in, though - even in early fall the river was absolutely raging. If you continue along the riverbank, you should find a small, slightly rickety metal bridge that allows you to cross safely. After crossing, continue uphill to a new mountain path, then turn left and follow the ridge to the base of the Gergeti Glacier.

The foothills beneath this huge slope of frozen water, covered with sand and snaking through a red mountain that can safely be called something very unusual.

You will see avid climbers ascending the ice to see all the sights on top of Mount Kazbegi (a challenging three-day expedition), studded with huge packs piled high with ice clubs, helmets, and safety ropes. And see the regular hikers who enthusiastically follow them to see, and realize, that going down the steep wall of slippery ice will be much harder than going up.

Although many people walk on ice, it is not advisable to do so unless you are properly equipped or at least have a pair of hiking poles. Just a few steps will make you slip.

To return to Kazbegi, simply follow the same route down or choose an alternate route along the ridge once you reach Sabertse Pass.

Although the trail is easy to follow and well laid out, the route is also marked on Maps.Me, which we always, always recommend to have on hand to keep an eye on the road if the weather changes or you decide to go back.

Top tips for the Gerget Trinity Church and glacier hike

Really can not be silent about the fact that you should not underestimate the altitude! Sitting at 3200m, the foot of the Gergeti Glacier is hardly high, but if you come from Tbilisi , which is about 500m and head straight up the mountain from Kazbegi at 1,700m, which is a huge altitude change of less than 24 hours, you will notice a huge difference.

Although I had planned to do a calmer hike on my first day here, at least not to suffer the consequences of the aforementioned cheese-filled treats, the weather forecast predicted a storm for the rest of the week, and I didn't want to miss the only opportunity to get to the glacier. I also spent the rest of the day after the hike in bed, feeling insanely stacked. Don't repeat my mistakes.

If you haven't spent much time in the mountains, it's better to spend at least one day in Kazbegi to acclimatize or choose one of the many other impressive day hikes in Kazbegi that stick to lower altitudes.

The weather here is very temperamental. There's a reason Kazbegi is painted such vibrant shades of green-it experiences constant rain throughout the year, and the mountain peaks allow storms to build up, only to sneak up on travelers. Given how long this route is, how quickly temperatures can drop at these altitudes, and how vulnerable much of the trail is, it's important to pay close attention to the weather before setting out and prepare accordingly.

Take warm waterproof clothing with you. I was fortunate to hike under clear skies that remained for most of the hike, but by the time I left the glacier, icy winds had descended from the mountains and thunderclouds were rolling in quickly, culminating in a torrential downpour started immediately after I returned to my guesthouse. The weather can change very quickly, and it's best to be prepared. Warm clothes, a warm jacket and windbreaker are just a necessity in this one.

Wear the right shoes. Seriously, the sheer number of people fashionably seen climbing the rain-wet trail to the church in shiny sandals and platforms is enough to make one very surprised. Sure, it's an easy route, but it's still a hike with a few short stretches of loose rocky scree and mud that can be very slippery after rain, which happens more often than not.

At a minimum, we recommend wearing sturdy, closed-toe shoes to get to church. For the glacier, proper hiking boots and socks are definitely a good idea. I love these lightweight, mountain-style boots I've seen on all my hikes in Georgia.

Take snacks and plenty of water. Another important thing that many hikers get wrong is how much food to bring. I started my hike at dark, only to arrive at dawn, which meant that I skipped breakfast altogether and I had to bring at least something substantial from the food. Nuts, crackers, bread, and bananas were all I had for food for the day, and that was clearly not enough for such a long hike.

There are several small mini-markets scattered around Kazbegi, but in my experience, they don't sell many decent walking snacks for a full packed lunch. Instead, we recommend buying groceries in Tbilisi and just stocking up on essentials and fresh fruit when you arrive.

Get out as early as possible. It takes at least nine hours at a good, steady pace to get to the Gergeti Glacier. Add time to visit a church, a lunch break, and plenty of time to take pictures, and you can expect to add another hour or two to your adventure. Get out early to complete your hike, especially if you're not traveling in the summertime and when the days are relatively short.

You can stay at the new AltiHut 3.14. Opening its doors in summer 2018, this new mountain retreat tries to make these mountains more accessible to intrepid hikers. Located in a bowl beneath a glacier, you can certainly tell that this hotel is in a stunning location and has incredibly spectacular views.

This is also an ideal way to break up the hike if the entire route is too big for you to walk in one day or if you hope to get to the Bethlehem Hut about 5 km further up the glacier. This soft meadow surrounding it is also popular with hikers who want to see all the delights of Georgia.

Where else to hike and around Kazbegi

I had grand plans to spend an entire week hiking in and around Kazbegi, but they were immediately spoiled when I woke up to heavy rain and almost nothing to see. I offer slightly different options for margouts in the area that are very beautiful and interesting.

After looking at the photos of the Chowhee Pass area on my iPhone traveler, I definitely wanted to see it for myself. Departing from Juta, you can do a relatively easy hike that leads to the base of Mt. Chowhee, or a more intense day hike that continues up to the pass. Another option around Juta is the Sno Valley, a wide swath of greenery that is also worth seeing.

The lush, mysterious and rather restricted Truso Valley makes it as tempting a hiking destination as ever. Moving toward the border with Ossetia, the route can become quite challenging.

And while once an expensive cab was the only way to get to these mountain villages, the Mountain Freaks travel agency now fortunately offers a daily shuttle bus that runs throughout the hiking season to both Juta and Truso Valley. The fixed departure time means that you may not have enough time to see and take pictures, also you need 30 lari (10 euros) for the return trip, note that this is a convenient and economical way to get to these stunning places.

Where to stay in Kazbegi

Guest House Ketino Sujashvili

You will be perfectly welcomed in this hospitable guest house. Guests are greeted by friendly hostesses of the house, who are very fond of treating their tourists to hot cups of tea and Georgian treats. Their dining table is incredible, as are the pancake breakfasts, cups of tea and delicious Georgian food. Dorms and private rooms are available at very budget-friendly prices.

It is also worth noting that this location is marked incorrectly on most maps. On Maps.Me it is actually marked twice - the farthest one from the bridge is correct.

The Rooms Hotel offers one of the most famous accommodation options in Georgia with simply gorgeous surroundings, unbeatable views and a spacious outdoor terrace to enjoy relaxing late afternoon drinks. It's quite expensive by Georgian standards, but makes this hotel the perfect place if you're looking for something special in the mountains.

How to get from Tbilisi to Kazbegi

As in most cases in Georgia, you can get from Tbilisi to Kazbegi in two ways - by cab or by shuttle bus.

Both depart from Didube bus station, which, despite the huge chaotic Georgian bus stations, is considered the best. The bus station is relatively well organized.

To get to Didube bus station, take the subway from the city center and get off at the Didube stop. From the platform, go down the stairs and right through the underpass (not up the stairs), which will lead you directly to the main bus station, where a route stop for many major tourist destinations awaits you.

The route to Kazbegi is a longer one. Continue walking straight through this block until you see a row of market stalls on your right. Turn right to go through these stalls until you reach another stop. Turn left, and the Kazbegi route stop should be waiting for you at the end of this row with signs clearly signed in English and Georgian.

If you realize you are lost, once you pass through this market, there should be a small booth in the right corner, clearly marked with a blue sign that reads "Cashier's Office. You won't be able to buy a ticket here, but if you ask about Kazbegi, they can point you in the right direction and you can find your stop. This ticket office is also marked on Maps.Me in case you get completely lost.

Trinity Church in Gergeti and a hike on the Gergeti Glacier

You'll need to buy a ticket on board before you leave (10 lari / 3.50 euro), and we highly recommend choosing a seat as soon as you arrive to avoid unpleasant back seats. The shuttle leaves every hour and is always full, it takes about 3 hours to get to Kazbegi and stops along the way.

Driving through Didube bus station, you are likely to pass several small vehicles dedicated to Kazbegi. These are cabs that usually offer to make a few stops along the way to take pictures, but it will be about double the price of a shuttle bus (20 GEL). Depending on how you like to travel and whether you can pay for a car, this is actually a very good deal as the scenery along the road is fantastic.

Be prepared for cab drivers to approach you and try to persuade you to go with them. If you decide to take a shuttle bus and are a little confused, try to go to the bus stop.