Phuket Vegetarian Festival - Rules, Processions and Places

Phuket Vegetarian Festival - Rules, Processions and Places

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The Vegetarian Festival, better known as the Nine Emperors Festival in Thailand, is a rather eccentric and colorful event held on the 15th day of the waning moon of the Buddhist calendar, in October or September. The exact date depends on the year of the event. Tourists are best to go to the big cities to get their maximum experience.

It is most spectacularly celebrated in Phuket, the kingdom's largest island. The action itself may seem a little strange and even frightening, but in fact, as with most Thai festivals, the essence of the wild procession of shamans, mediums, and ma songs goes much deeper.

History of the festival

For the first time the festival was held back in 1825. At that time, the capital of Phuket was still the town of Te Reua. But the governor of the island decided to move the capital to a small settlement called Get-Hoe, which was located in Kathu. The village lived mainly from the tin mines, which employed many locals and Chinese immigrants.

As is well known, at that time fever was raging on the island, and Get-Hoé was not spared. A group of itinerant artists who came to the settlement at the time also caught the disease. On the day of the performance, instead of the audience's applause, they received fits of pain spreading throughout their bodies and high fever combined with chills. The artists managed to cope with the disease by eating only vegetables and praying to their gods for help. Their speedy recovery attracted attention, and soon the residents of Katu also became actively interested in vegetarian ceremonies. But the tradition of holding mass processions on this day began a little later.

In ancient Chinese mythology, there are nine major Gods to whom the festival is dedicated. Locals believe that on these days the gods descend from heaven to earth to protect people.

One of the Chinese living in the village went to his homeland to bring to Phuket the divine spirit incense and a sacred nameplate that would signify that the Chinese gods had taken Kato under their protection. He returned to the island on the seventh night of the ninth lunar month according to the Buddhist calendar. A procession of people, who had heard of his arrival, was waiting for him at the pier and accompanied the sacred cargo all the way home. Since then the solemn mass processions have become an integral part of the famous vegetarian festival.

What processions are

The vegetarian festival lasts for seven days, with processions beginning in the early morning and ending in the afternoon. On these days, dozens of ma dongs move through the streets, staggering as if in a trance. They are the central figures of the entire festival, who become mediums and shamans for the duration of the festival. It is believed that anyone who is still single and celibate can become a Ma Song.

As they move, they pierce their cheeks with bamboo sticks, swords, spears, and other sharp objects. It is believed that by hurting themselves, they ward off all evil from the island. The Thais are not at all frightened by this spectacle. They are grateful to the Ma Songs for doing their best to clear the island of sorrows and spiritual problems, and in a burst of emotion they wipe away the traces of blood left by such processions with handkerchiefs. The Ma songs claim that the support of the gods protects them from pain and injury. But as a precaution, they are all watched over by doctors who are ready to help in the event of serious injury.

vegetarian festival

People who mutilate their bodies for religion

It is worth noting, however, that the processions do not consist of only Ma Songs. It is worth noting, however, that the processions do not consist of Ma Songs alone, but of a great number of locals of various ages who join them, augmenting the procession with drumming and flashes of fireworks, which should also ward off evil. It is true, however, that all participants in the processions must adhere to a strict vegetarian diet for at least three days before the start of the festival, to cleanse themselves of the bad energy that accumulates from eating the meat of slaughtered animals.

The main venues of the festivals

Since the festival is dedicated to the Chinese gods, all of its main events are held in places where they are revered, that is, in Chinese temples:

  • Jui Tui (the main Chinese sanctuary);
  • Bang Neow (a temple located near the Robinson Center in Phuket);
  • Kiw Tieng Keng (a small church where the final ritual of the festival takes place);
  • Phra Phrom Thada (a small temple located on Phatana Road, one of the side streets of the city);
  • Sam Kong (located in the northern part of Phuket);
  • Sapam (located on the edge of the city, you can get there by a straight road leading to the airport);
  • Kathu (the temple is located in Kathu; many events are held there, because this is where the very tradition of holding a festival of vegetarians originated);
  • Rua (located outside of Phuket, just south of the monument to the Mook and Chan sisters).

Each of them is interesting in its own way, and in order not to waste time and see all the most impressive, read the program of the festival. It is compiled in advance by the organizers and describes where everything takes place and how to get to the place of action. You can find such a program in any travel agency or at the reception of the hotel where you are staying.

walking on coals

Walking on coals, part of the holiday ritual

For those who want to really feel the atmosphere of the holiday, you should visit the temple Jui Tui, which is located in Phuket Town near the main market. There you can try a variety of vegetarian dishes or even make an offering to the gods, purifying yourself from bad energy. Afterwards, we recommend that you be sure to watch one of the processions, as they are the hallmark of the whole celebration.

One of the most suitable places for this purpose is the Old Town area of Phuket Town, streets. (Dubik, Krabi, Thalang). If you are traveling in a rental vehicle, try to leave early so that you have a place to park. There are always plenty of people who want to watch the processions. The more so that you won't get bored waiting for the procession to start: there are many cozy cafes in Phuket Town where you can have breakfast and relax. If you decide to take a cab to your destination, you won't have to worry about parking, of course. But you'll pay about 500-600 baht for the trip.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

Firecrackers explode around vegetarian festival participants

Another event worth seeing with your own eyes is the last night of the Vegetarian Festival. The best place to watch the rituals taking place on this night is the grounds of the Metropol Hotel. At eleven o'clock in the evening, to the sound of firecrackers, a large crowd of participants of the festivities moves from there, heading towards the temple in Sapan Hin to perform the last ritual.

The climax of the Feast of the Nine Emperors is the ritual farewell to the nine gods. Participants in the procession burn a paper castle for Emperor Jade. Then palanquins are brought to one of the bays to bring the emperor-gods back into the sea. In colorful paper costumes, surrounded by gold paper, they are lowered into the water and watched as they disappear into the distance.

Vegetarian Festival Rules

There are ten rules to follow if you want to participate in the Veggie Festival. The locals, like the gods they revere, do not approve of those who ignore these rules visiting temples.

So, the 10 rules of a vegetarian festival:

  1. All participants of the festival must keep their bodies clean.
  2. Dishes that were not used by the participants of the festival must be kept clean.
  3. Do not be in an unstable mental or physical state.
  4. No alcohol can be consumed during the festival.
  5. During the holiday, stick to a vegetarian diet.
  6. It is also worthwhile to give up sex for the duration of the festival.
  7. The color white, the color of purity, should be preferred in clothing.
  8. People in mourning are not allowed to attend the festival.
  9. Women during pregnancy are not allowed to observe the rituals being performed.
  10. Women may not enter temples while they are menstruating.

Strictly adhere to all ten rules should only participants of the festival.

Recommendations for tourists

  • The vegetarian festival in Thailand is definitely not for the faint of heart. So if you are not ready to observe the traditional rituals that take place on this day, it is better to refuse to attend it.
  • But if you still want to attend the event, try to stick to the rules established in advance by the organizers. Plan your program for the day, so that you don't miss anything, and enjoy the atmosphere of this extraordinary and unique celebration.

Today, the Phuket Vegetarian Festival is one of the most massive and crowd-pleasing events in Phuket.

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